12/29/2023 0 Comments Steel saferoom prehung doorWhen you say "frame" do you mean the jamb? The door I'm looking at is a pre-hung door, but I don't believe the jamb itself is steel, so I had planned on reinforcing the jamb and hinge side with something like EZ Armor and the other steps that I've read about on how to make an exterior door harder to kick in. It makes a great safe room, but is also a good place to store stuff, and my safe is in there as well. It was a lot of work, but it's solid and the entrance is also hidden for extra security/time. Then I stacked cinderblocks into the trench and filled them with concrete, using the concrete as the walls, and using masonry bolts to attach my frame to the cinderblock walls.Īin't nothing getting in through that door or walls, at least not in a short period of time. In my case, the room was in my basement, so I cut a 2" deep trench in the slab with holes for rebar sunk another 8". I use a deadbolt for when I'm not at home, and there is rebar that slides in holes in the floor, walls and roof for barring the door further from the inside. This is very time consuming and I suggest getting a frame if you can. I got some square tubing from a supply house and welded my own frame. It came with a piano hinge and holes cut for deadbolt and passage. I bought a steel commercial door used from a salvage house for under $100. Interior door frames are generally not very strong. There's not much point in putting in a solid wood or steel door unless you're planning on replacing the frame. Does the thickness of the door itself affect the TOTAL thickness of the door and jamb? Will a prehung exterior door go right into the same place as an interior prehung door without having to do any renovations to the wall? I've looked at the different specs on an interior and exterior door, and the interior are 1.375 thick, with the exterior being 1.75" thick. I've put doors in before, and its not difficult at all, but I know theres a difference in thickness in the door itself. My other question is on the install of the prehung door. The wood doors are more expensive, but I'm assuming the steel doors are stronger? I'd like the door to look as normal as possible, so I'd rather not have to install one of those metal plates that wrap around the doorknob to strengthen it, and I'm assuming you'd want to do that on a wood door to keep it from busting from a kick to the doorknob. My first question is on suggestions on the strength between solid core wood doors and steel doors. I'm also going to reinforce the jamb and hinges, and install a deadbolt, but I have questions on installing an exterior door on the interior. We have a basic 30" hollow core door, and I'm looking at replacing it with a steel solid core exterior door. I want to use the master bedroom closet for the actual safe room, and in the future also beef up the door to the bedroom for an initial line of defense, but for now I want to replace just the master closet door. I'm starting some plans on putting a safe room in my home and need some suggestions on the door.
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